OI, MEHANA, SHIKA DAM!


By Philipp Kirkorov

Greetings, dear friends who share in my love of food and estrada! I may be known to my millions of adoring fans around the world as the "Sensation from Russia!" and I may even be the first Russian Singer to have been given a FAMA Award for contributions to Latin music and culture-but I also happen to be half-Bulgarian. Yes indeed, I inherited that fiery Balkan blood pulsing through my veins from my dear father, Bulgarian crooner Bedros Kirkorov. So when I heard that the fine Bulgarian establishment MEHANA BANSKO had a brand new chef and partially revamped menu, I jumped at the chance to tell all about it right here in the pages of my favorite English-language glamour mag, the eXile.
     Aside from its wondrous interior and atmosphere (more on that later), Mehana Bansko has always had one very special thing going for it: a tasty combination of simple home-style cooking with subtle gourmet flourishes, all at wonderfully down-to-earth prices. In fact, whenever one of my Spectacular World Tour Extravaganzas completes its Moscow run, I like to invite my entire 100+-member personal entourage here for a real Bulgarian-style feast. There is nothing to compare to the immense joy I experience when I see one of those little people who has worked so hard to help me look glamorous onstage rapturously enjoying his first-ever bowl of Bob chorba (hearty bean soup with bacon lardoons).
     This being my first visit to Mehana Bansko since the close of my "Diva" tour more than a year ago, I was anxious to see what new treasures were in store. We started with the Vita banitsa (140R), a delicate traditional puff-pastry pie filled with feta cheese. My father used to make these for me as a boy when I excelled at some feat or other, but even without such memories I think you'll find these to be quite fabulous. From the wonderful array of Bulgarian salads, we chose Chushki po pirinski (140R), roasted red peppers literally drenched in a sour cream sauce infused with tangy garlic, and the so-called "Apetitka" (120R), a robust variation on the eggplant and pepper puree that has been prepared for countless centuries all around the Mediterranean. This dish always reminds me of doting grandmothers and spring days spent rolling around in tall grass. It was with this in mind that I prepared my own version of this delicacy for the King of Pop himself back in June 1999 when he invited me (along with such luminaries as Pavarotti, Mariah Carey, and Boyz II Men, just to name a few) to take part in his "Michael Jackson & Friends" international charity concerts. One of Michael's assistants even asked me for the recipe later, which I gladly provided, together with a signed glossy photo.
     I must admit that my dining companion sought to order one of the simpler entrees, tender grilled pork shashlyk (270R) perhaps. Upon my insistence, however, he chose instead one of the chef's very latest creations: Agneshko gerdi (400R), a sumptuous mutton-breast roll in white wine sauce accompanied by a baked pepper half stuffed with a cornucopia of vegetables and organ meats. I daresay that even the lamb whose recent sacrifice made this dish possible would cry out with joy were it able to sample its posthumously prepared self. My entree was an altogether different beast, not to mix metaphors: Sudzhuk po banski (260R), spicy homemade pork sausages prepared with a secret blend of herbs and seasonings (I must admit that not even I am privy to the full list of ingredients as, according to the old traditions, only full-blooded Bulgarians are permitted access to this ancient knowledge). I had a spot of trouble dealing with the casings in which these curvaceous sausages were housed, but with the special serrated blade delivered by a particularly attentive waitress I was able finally to free the succulent ground flesh from its intestinal confines. If only my dear departed friend and wordsmith Leonid Derbenev had lived to taste such delights.... Ah, but I digress. I do regret not having tried the chef's other new invention: Ryba s lyut sos (500R), tender young salmon grilled in lemon juice with a chestnut, raisin, and avocado sauce.
     It always surprises me when I'm on tour in France, Italy, or some other traditional wine superpower and the locals there have no knowledge of the fine output of our native Bulgarian vineyards. Here in Moscow at least, Mehana Bansko is doing what it can to stem the tide of such ignorance, with dozens of varieties available. A pre-meal tasting of four representative types and the chef's special recommendations for each dish can help to sort through the daunting maze of choices.
     But of course, anyone who has been there knows that Mehana Bansko's charms do not end with the food and drink-these are only the beginning. The waitstaff in quaint traditional costume, the homey wood furnishings, the lively musical ensemble... to be quite honest, I can think of no other dining establishment in Moscow that boasts such an inviting atmosphere. Even though the live ensemble was absent on the day when we visited (owing to a Balkan Air flight cancellation, we were told), a never-ending flow of judiciously chosen traditional and contemporary recordings kept our spirits high. And if I did feel any personal embarrassment at hearing my own rendition of "Oi, Mama, Shika Dam!" played for at least the third time in as many hours, this was certainly assuaged by the throngs of ecstatic fans lining up for autographs. I am an Artist after all, and I am so glad that somehow I can give a gift of happiness and love to YOU, my AUDIENCE through my songs, and now, my words.