There being no end in sight to this winter’s onslaught of snowfall, now is perhaps as good a time as any to take a few moments to consider the current state of the Moscow restaurant scene.

First, a few words on sushi. Don’t get me wrong—I like sushi. It’s relatively healthy and rich in many key nutrients that are so frequently lacking in modern Western diets. It’s filling without making you feel like you need to barf. And it is perhaps the most effective natural hangover cure known to humankind. Still, these positive attributes in no way justify Moscow’s now longstanding sushi obsession. The fish used to prepare sushi must, by its very nature, be exceedingly fresh. Otherwise, the dish ends up being quite bland, and possibly even potentially harmful. Like it or not, Moscow is perhaps the most landlocked major city in the world. Getting raw fish from the source to here in edible form requires both extensive professional efforts and a great deal of money. It would be absurd to believe that the dozens of sushi joints now operating in Moscow can be reasonably supported by current supply systems. No less absurd is the distasteful spectacle of Moscow’s elites happily gorging themselves on ludicrously expensive and largely mediocre sushi while much of the rest of the country is, quite literally, dying of hunger and cold. Clearly, Russia has better things to waste its money on than Quixotic attempts to establish reliable import supplies of certain types of seafood. For these reasons, I will no longer be eating sushi in Moscow. Should a review of such an establishment be deemed editorially necessary, I shall temporarily delegate my responsibilities to one Patrick Bateman, an investment banker who has no conscience whatsoever and is, in any event, enamored of such nouveau riche trappings.

There will be one exception to this no-sushi policy, however—ULEY. Not that their sushi isn’t also expensive, but at least the taste makes one confident that proper handling methods have been observed throughout the fish’s long journey from the sea to your plate. Even so, the real reason to visit Uley is still the regular menu—which has just been almost totally transformed once again. As with previous menu makeovers, Isaac Correa again demonstrates that he is one of the few chefs around with both an inventive imagination and the culinary chops to back it up.

Among the new and notable dishes are the Asian-style tuna tartare ($17.25), an exquisite appetizer served with wonton chips, Romaine hearts, and sesame dressing; hiyashi wakame ($14.25), seaweed salad with peanut sauce; and sauteed soft shell crabs ($37.25), served over black calamari sticky rice, arugula tossed in sesame dressing, and wasabi aioli. Making a glorious return from a previous menu incarnation are the nori-wrapped crab cakes ($18.20). Also not to be missed is the unusual lobster bisque green tea cappuccino ($12.75), which comes in a smallish coffee cup and is incredibly potent—the combination of the lobster flavor with the style of serving can take some getting used to. The new entrees also include green tea ravioli & charred duck foie gras ($29.25) and—the inevitable one we didn’t get to try, but definitely will next time—star anise-tamarind Tonkatsu-glazed milk-fed veal chop with grilled portabello mushroom and “Kannon” creamer potatoes ($37.25). The “milk-fed veal” reminds us of that great scene from Scorsese’s Casino, while the “Kannon” potatoes are named for the chef’s infant son—an AOK combo in our book.

And as usual, Isaac really pulls out all the stops when it comes to dessert: the strawberry & organic hazelnut shortcake with basil and goat cheese ice cream ($10), curry-crusted blueberry cheese tart ($12), and fruit sushi with green tea ice cream and tamarind ginger sauce ($13.75) all more than live up to their enticing descriptions. But the best of the bunch is the Brazilian lime tart ($14), as close as anyone has gotten yet to a true key lime pie in this part of the world. Of course, prices have escalated somewhat—an unfortunate side effect of the place’s popularity with the turtlenecked Afisha-reading crowd. But don’t let these unpleasant scum scare you away—even if, like us, you can’t really afford to eat there as often as you might like.

Besides, there are far more hideously overpriced and pretentious targets to direct your true ire at... such as upscale French places the likes of Le Duc, Club T, etc. The latest entry in this field is KUMIR, which fills the premises vacated some time ago by the original Talk of the Town over on Tryokhprudny pereulok. Apparently, we’re supposed to start coming in our pants just because the dinners cost about $150 per person, the proprietor runs some 3-star Michelin Guide eatery in Rouen, and he brought over all his own ovens from France. But until one of these snooty frog restaurateurs comps us for a free meal, we’re going to go right on ignoring the slimy bastards. And we advise you to do the same.

More news that really isn’t in the perennially disappointing Chinese category: despite a spat of recent openings (Chinatown, Drevny Kitai, Khram Drakona, etc.), there’s still nothing that’s either affordable or good, let alone both at the same time.

As for the longtime favorites, Starlite Diner and Hola Mexico seem to be holding on as titleholders in their respective categories, even if both are showing definite signs of resting on their laurels. On the other hand, Uncle Guilly’s and Darbar continue to maintain their standards of old, arguably even having improved somewhat. The former has proudly solved what some have referred to as the “bun problem” with their burgers, while the latter remains the undisputed king of Indian dining.

But when it comes to a meal that’s quick, spicy, and inexpensive, I still put my money on the satisfying Ethiopian at Bungalo Bar. The atmosphere may be dreary, but given our geographical setting this is not exactly inappropriate.