the eXile - bar-dak - Lionel Tannenbaum

Issue #14/95, July 20 - August 3, 2000

Re-Place-ment and Remont

By Lionel Tannenbaum

If you're like me, perhaps you've been wondering what has happened to the once-beloved and frequently-closed-for-remont Stella. The simple, none-too-helpful answer would be that Stella is right where it always was on Pushechnaya Ulitsa, possibly even having been reopened (again) by this late date. However, if it's fate of the mysteriously Swiss-Austrian and who-knows-what-else people behind Stella you're wondering about, you'll have to look someplace further. THE PLACE, to be more precise.

Regular readers may recall The Place as a not-terribly-successful nouvelle-ish bistro kind of place. Well, old caveats are now hereby revoked, as The Place's somewhat new ownership/management has now transformed it into a place more befitting its original promise. In fact, were it not for the hideous row of car dealerships lining the opposite bank, the whole canal-side setting would seem downright civilized (and if you're something of a car enthusiast, it might still).

That said, The Place's new menu is much reminiscent (albeit less definitively Italian) of the old Stella. For example, the dynamic 7 bean salad ($7) is still among the finer vegetarian options in town, as are the simpler pasta dishes—spaghetti with either tomato and basil or garlic, oil, and hot pepper ($8 each). It being summer again, that magnificent Andalusian Gazpacho ($5) is back as well—if anything, even more tangy and invigorating than last year's incarnation. Otherwise, the regular menu includes any number of classily prepared versions of your standard starters and entrees—tomato and mozzarella ($13), vitello tonnato ($12), lamb chops on red wine sauce ($30), and various fresh seafood dishes as the market and season allow. Former fans of The Place's always solid chicken wings will also be intrigued by their new manifestation, fried in a light, flaky batter with a delightful wasabi-infused dipping sauce (a real deal at $5).

More than likely, however, you won't get past the more-varied rotating specials menu. Current offerings include a marvelous asparagus and avocado number in balsamic vinaigrette ($17); goose liver (highly rated by our resident pate-man) and white truffle oil can be added for an extra $10—an extravagance, but definitely worth it. There was some confusion as to whether the "medallions of sea devil" ($24) were in fact monkfish or devilfish, but those who like their seafood slightly fishy will not care much either way—and the accompanying vegetable risotto is simply superb. Also not to be missed are the richly colored dishes of chanterelle mushrooms—from the simple but effective risotto ($15) to the veal fillet with cream sauce ($35).

Add to this conscientious service, good coffee, a three-course business lunch for just $11, and a nicely varied wine list with a few solid but lesser-known Tuscany reds for around $30, and you've got all the elements of an enjoyable meal.

Follow the Moskva as it winds its way to the other side of the city center and the White House, and you'll find another (albeit lesser-known) eatery that has gone through a transformation. Here, just past the western corner of the Russian Government building is a former "city cafe" that has been renovated in true gay-urban-hipster style (flashy colors from the lighter side of the spectrum, various artsy and/or sexually oriented photos on the walls, etc.) and renamed GORODSKOYE KAFE 317. Frankly, we were hoping the new numerical suffix was a Russian version of the U.S. police code "187." The real story, however, is altogether more Fox Force 5 (think Pulp Fiction): the "3" is for the ideals of faith, hope, and love; the "1" is for the fact that the cafe is one of a kind; the "7" for the fact that they operate seven days a week. Very cool!

The menu is touted as being a sort of "little fusion" (presumably an attempt to cash in on the latest mini-craze), but most will recognize it as the usual Russian standards, sometimes with locally inflected "humorous" titles (Team Spartak soup, Presnensky cutlet-burger, etc.). Anyway, the biggest thing this remont-ed little city cafe has going for it is bargain prices, maxing out at 180R for the salmon steak. The borshch and clay-pot mushroom julienne (both 55R) are solidly tasty little numbers, as are the various Georgian offerings—lavash with cheese and cilantro (35R), lobio (40R), and the rather peanut-y satsivi (65R). Referred to as "temperamental appetizers," perhaps it is these dishes that are meant to justify the "fusion" moniker. Then again, it could be the nasi goreng (155R)—a somewhat-too-salty and soy-sauce-heavy version of the Indonesian favorite that includes chicken chunks and sweet pepper. The basic pelmeny (65R) are bound to provide for a more satisfying eating experience.The Green Chicken (also 65R) is a far more interesting chicken appetizer, although you might want to request easy on the so-called Sorento sauce—some kind of greens-infused mayonnaise, apparently.

And if you happen to live in the neighborhood take note of the daily breakfast served 10am-1pm—omelets and assorted kasha for 25-30R. In any case, the price alone makes this place an option to keep in mind if you happen to be stuck in a tank outside the White House with no place to eat. Or if you're just short of cash. Or just hungry. Get over there, willya?

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