Issue #23/104, Nov 23 - Dec 7, 2000 
TURNING JAPANESE
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A simple consideration of economics and available supply routes is enough to conclude that not even a small percentage Moscow’s vast and ever-increasing number of sushi bars and restaurants can possibly receive enough raw materials of sufficient quality to function reasonably. So when I heard that the owner of the heretofore unknown KAMAKURA was claiming that his restaurant is the best Japanese restaurant in town and all the others are “shit,” my initial reaction was that the first assertion is not necessarily all that impressive and the second is true virtually by definition. That said, I’m pleased to report that Kamakura, which takes its name from Japan’s ancient capital and is located near Metro Novoslobodskaya, does in fact serve top-notch sushi and is perhaps the only Moscow eatery to date that has mastered the apparently complex art of tempura.
Of course, the prices are not exactly what you might call cheap—but then this should surprise no one who has the slightest experience with Moscow sushi places. A few figures might help to put things in more concrete terms—sushi by the portion is generally $3-5, with fancy-schmancy tuna going for $7-10 and the various assortments for (6, 8, and 10 plus one roll each) $19, 21, and 50, respectively; sashimi for $16-23; miso soup for $3; yakitori for $9; salads for $9-20; and tempura assortment for $19.
We started with the simplest of the sushi assortments. The tuna was decent if a little disappointing, given the quality of the remaining items. The king prawn was especially fine—a tastier specimen I have yet to encounter anywhere in Moscow. Even the usually skippable white fish was particularly delectable.
Next up was the exquisite tempura. The $19 might seem a bit rich, but if you’re like me you’ve probably yet to find anywhere in Moscow that does this dish right. Keep in mind that the fish items are slightly less delicious, so you might want to lean toward the shrimp with vegetables (also $19) or even the vegetable-only ($13) versions. As with the sushi, the shrimp was impeccable.
The entrees are unusually varied and given limited time and stomach room, we restricted ourselves to the basis yakitori chicken shashlyk. The meat was nicely marinated and invitingly tender. Again, I find it hard to recall anywhere in Moscow doing it better. Potential candidates for future visits include Japanese beans ($13), duck fantasy ($17), and the mysterious marinated jellyfish ($10).
Drinks are rather predictably overpriced, a half liter of draft Sapporo going for a high but not totally outlandish $7. The service can be described as either depressed or heavily sedated, depending how attentive you are of the dispositions of others. If there’s anything that leaves something to be desired, it’s the interior. The layout resembles nothing so much as a 3rd-floor buffet in a provincial hotel, an effect that is only heightened by the too-white paint on the sparsely decorated walls. There are a few more intimate separate rooms, so these might be a better bet. Then again, given the not-even-worth-considering quality level of most of Moscow’s Japanese joints, I’m willing to give the atmosphere (or lack thereof) a whole lotta leeway. And if you have any sense, you’ll do the same.
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