Issue #28/83, February 10 - 17, 2000
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Azteca$$$ Jeers:Vegetable-only versions of the nachos and burritos have been squeezed out of the menu. Salsa band plays "My Way". M:Novoslobodskaya Phone: 972-0511 Address:Novoslobodskaya 11, str. 1 Hours: 12.00 - 5.00 Bulldog$$ Cheers:Reasonably affordable, no-nonsense Peruvian and Spanish and a no-nonsense atmosphere to match; spicy ceviches; look ma, yam! Nice cellar location along the boulevard ring. El Gaucho$$$ Cheers:Meat products of the very highest quality prepared by an authentic Argentinean chef--he even has a bushy mustache! Decent wine list with a hearty house red. The asada and chorizo has got balls, baby. Homey wood interior makes for a nice setting on winter evenings. Hola Mexico!$$ Cheers: New Latin American chef is kicking the king of Moscow's Mexican joints back into shape. Nachos, in particular, have regained their former glory; fajitas still a winner. Also try the burritos, nachos, quesadillas. Margaritas pack a tasty punch, as witnessed by the lush-filled eXile table at the recent 2nd anniversary celebration. Exquisite banana split. Several rooms to sit in, depending on the degree of intimacy/noise you want. La Cantina$$$ CheersThe most centrally of centrally located restaurants; not exactly what you'd call Mexican, but edible nonetheless; added American bar food to go with tasty fajitas. Bobby Brown swears by the wings. Better to go here for the drinks. The Original Azteca$$$ Jeers:...but they sort of ruin it by never cleaning the damn windows. Disappointing nachos; sketchy soups and salads. Way too much canned corn and peas for comfort. A recent beef burrito came packed with... peanuts?! M:Okhotny Ryad Phone:956-8467/8359 Address: Ul. Tverskaya 3/5 Pancho Villa$$
Cheers: Ai caramba! Wait, we shouldn't be allowed to say that, but what the aych-ee-double-toothpick! Pancho V's offers Moscow a few choice Mexican items that make it worth a visit: the meatball soup ($4), the burrito ($6) and the cheesecake ($4). That's all you need. You won't get budget-priced Mexican food like this anywhere in the CIS. Seating on the Arbat makes a good perch for scouting and catcalling. Serve authentic snobberific blue agave tequila. Rio Rio$$S
Cheers:All-you-can-eat salad bar and cavalcade of Brazilian-style meats (12 varieties!) for just $35. High-quality materials and mostly skilled preparations. We dig the turkey/bacon concoction and chicken hearts. Above-par margaritas and stirring house wine. Fun rotunda dining room captures that suburban Chi-Chi's spirit. Santa Fe$$$ Cheers:A bit cheaper than Azteca; full of handsome New Russian types; large bar area serving up wicked drinks. Chef hails from East LA, which should tell you something good. Once you're through here, you can head around the side to Hippopotum, and breathe your salsa breath on someone you love.
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